Domaine de Séverin - Rhum Blanc - 50% abv.
Updated: Dec 27, 2018
Rum-Review-A-Day: Day 21 - Domaine de Séverin - Rhum Blanc - 50% abv.
Today we travel to the northern parts of Basse-Terre in Guadeloupe to Domaine de Sérevin. A sugar mill that dates back to the 1700’s and a distillery that has continuously been producing rhum since the early 1900’s (as well as periods in between). Here we have classic “Indication Geographic” rhum. Steep hills of cane needing to be hand cut. 48 hours of open-top fermentation - they do it the natural way here. Single column distillation up to 70% abv. We’re not talking anything fancy. We are just talking good ol’ agricole. This specific bottle is their base-line rhum blanc, which is diluted down to and bottled at 50%, as is common practice with the majority of un-arged french style rhums.
On the nose - no doubt that we’re dealing with an agricole here. It’s green. It’s grassy. It’s fruity and it’s dirty. I’m going to like this one. Interestingly, the fruit notes are what jump out at me first. This rhum is an overly ripe mango BOMB! There was Indian store in Malmö (where I previously lived) that imported perfectly ripe, golden Indian mangos for a period of about 3 weeks per year. This rhum is that in liquid form - delicious, sweet Indian mango. Slightly overripe so that the fermentation has started under the skin, giving the fruit a slightly medicinal/boozy smell. Then we’re going to add some lime zest and a dash of guava and green papaya. White pepper. Liquorice root. Green olives, although not nearly as briny as I’ve felt in other rhums of the same style. The grass is green and fresh. Not dried hay and cardboard as I was expecting, but instead freshly pressed cane juice mixed with an explosion of the green flesh you find on the inside of a watermelon. Finally, add a few heaps of damp earth and a scoop of beach-side sand. This nose definitely paints a picture for me.
The palate is everything green. Green cane. Green banana leaves. Green peppercorns & jalapeños. Green olives and a few sheets of dried green seaweed dusted with dried salt of the sea. In contrast to the nose, the fruity notes here are much more citrus focused with fresh pressed lime and lemon as well as hints of grapefruit and bitter pomelo peel. Also some yuzu-like citrus ferment going on. As you let the rhum linger for a while on your tongue, you do find a bit of the mango and guava, but they are both very unripe/green. Nail polish and pine needles. Dry earth and wet grey clay. Eucalyptus mixed with damp raked autumn leaves. Perhaps a hint of sweetness that resembles chewing on fresh cane dipped in vanilla.
The palate is a lovely blend of green, bitter and earthy tones. The mouth feel is oily and semi-dry. There is a lingering sweetness that coats the mouth and throat. The finish is long lived and while starting off super fresh and citrusy, finishes with the taste of wet dirt that I vividly remember from times as a child when I was allowed to dig holes in the back yard…
This rhum represents its roots. Yup, natural agricole through and through.